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Merge upstream main into openxr-work
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@@ -60,19 +60,47 @@ Everything you change is saved to `Config.toml` on the spot and restored next la
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**Real controller support.**
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Controllers are fed to the game as a GameCube controller.
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The port does NOT pretend to be a Wii Remote or Classic Controller.
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Mappings are positional (`south`, `east`, `west`, `north`) rather than Xbox-labelled, so the
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same config makes sense on Xbox, PlayStation, Nintendo and generic SDL pads alike, and extra
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inputs like paddles, touchpads and share buttons show up when the hardware reports them.
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The official Wii U / Switch GameCube adapter (WUP-028) works too; as with Dolphin, on Windows the
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adapter must be switched to the WinUSB driver once (Zadig).
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**Real Wii Remotes over Bluetooth.**
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Pair a Wii Remote with Windows (Settings > Bluetooth > Add device, press 1+2 or SYNC, leave the
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PIN empty) and the game reads it as an actual Wii Remote through KPAD: Wii Remote icons and
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prompts, Wii Wheel tilt steering, wheelies and tricks all come from the game's own motion code.
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Nunchuk and Classic Controller are real Wii extensions too: the game gets the Nunchuk's stick,
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C/Z and accelerometer, and the Classic Controller through `KPADGetUnifiedWpadStatus` with its own
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layout and icons, so its buttons do what the game says they do and no mapping is involved. Plug an
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extension in or pull it out mid-game and the game switches control scheme like on the console
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(the runtime patches SDL's Wii driver, which otherwise loses the remote for good on an extension
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change). Only the Wii U Pro Controller, which has no Wii-era equivalent, is fed to the game as a
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GameCube pad with Nintendo's layout. If a remote drops out or was switched on after launch, the
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runtime keeps rescanning Bluetooth until it comes back (F10 > Controller settings > Wii Remotes). SDL's read of
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the remote's factory accelerometer calibration often times out over Bluetooth (`console.log`
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then says "Using fallback accelerometer calibration") and it falls back to a nominal zero point,
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so the same menu has a one-button calibration (remote flat, buttons up) that removes the small
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tilt offset some remotes show.
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Known limitations of the Wii Remote path:
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- No IR pointer yet: menus are navigated with the D-pad and A (the game treats the remote as
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pointing away from the screen).
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- Battery level is not reported to the game and the remote's speaker is not implemented.
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- Only the Wii Remote's own accelerometer is calibrated; the Nunchuk's uses SDL's fixed zero point.
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- The Classic Controller's L/R triggers reach the game as digital (full pull on click): SDL does not
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expose their analog travel.
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- Turn the Wii Remote support off in that menu if you use a Mayflash DolphinBar, which already
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presents the remote as a regular gamepad.
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## Requirements
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- Windows 10 or 11, 64-bit
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- GPU: GTX 1650 / RX 6400 / Arc A310 or higher
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- CPU: Intel Core i5-8400 / AMD Ryzen 5 2600 (4c/6c, ~3.5GHz+) or higher
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- About 20 GB of free disk space during installation (Final game size ~5 GB)
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- macOS 14 (Sonoma) or later on Apple Silicon
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- On macOS, Apple Xcode Command Line Tools (Setup opens Apple's installer when they are missing)
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- A clean, unmodified **PAL `RMCP01`** disc image of Mario Kart Wii, dumped by you. ISO, GCM,
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GCZ, CISO, WBFS, WIA and RVZ are accepted.
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@@ -93,6 +121,7 @@ image under Settings, turn on **WiiCompiled (beta)**, and hit install from the H
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Wheel Wizard downloads the setup tool from this repo and walks you through install, updates and
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launching. The backend itself is deliberately command-line only, Wheel Wizard is a wrapper around it.
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> [!CAUTION]
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> Only take builds from this repository's
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> [Releases](https://github.com/patchzyy/Wiicompiled/releases) page. If someone's sharing an
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